12' Leland Lake Plans

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After designing and building the 8ft Nuthatch Pram, I thought that I would modify the design to a standard "V" bowed hull to see what it would look like. I was surprised to see that the hull design could be modified this way, and the first model came out looking pretty good to me; but I had other hulls in the works, so this one sat on a shelf for a few years. I caught up with some of the projects I was working on and turned my attention back to this hull and tweaked the design in the transom area, and fixed the curves leading into the bow point of the two bottom panels at the keel line. I also stretched it out to 12ft (flat) so it will just need a full and a half sheet of plywood (with a Payson Joint) to make it. This design could even be lofted down to 8 or 10feet, and up to something around 20 feet or greater. I would modify the "V" of the keel to be even more pronounced (deeper) on the forward section of these larger hulls, and add standup steering stations to the designs.

This design still has curves in the hull panels upper and lower edges that will need to be lofted up, but there are sections of straight edges on each of them too. This will make the hull a little easier to loft up, but you will still need to layout the curves on the bow ends of the side and bottom panels. The keel line is straight from the transom up to about the 8ft mark near the bow, and then the curving starts up to the bottom edge of the bow. I took some time with the design so the "chine edge" will look like a straight line when the hull is in the water, so it should look good with the slight dip in the rails at the middle and the rise of the rails to the bow. It has a bit of classic Lobster Boat look to it and should be good in wind and waves. I also made the transom 20" high for safety; so you will need a long shaft OB motor.

This hull design is mainly for those that want a fishing style hull, and need a seating layout that is normally used with an outboard motor. I have moved the rear seat off the stern so you may control your outboard motor's tiller more easily.

I have gone to using the "enclosed pyramid" (with watertight hatches) style of seating in all my designs for safety reasons. After reading a story, with photos, dealing with the deep water self rescue of a brand new "traditional open interior" small boat design, and they couldn't; I will no longer include drawings or instructions for old style wooden plank seat interiors. Your safety, and that of your family members is more important to me, than any negative comments about my hull interiors. This hull as designed, has around 5+ cubic feet of extra positive flotation build into the enclosed pyramid seating. That's over 300 pounds of extra support, along with the wood in the hull. The two handle/steps on the stern are there to help you or a loved one, get back in the boat again if needed. Always carry and wear, a life jacket adequately sized for you and your guests, and be sure they are in good condition at all times.

This is a design that I have not built a prototype hull to test the lofting from the design build plans, but after tank testing other previously built hulls, and comparing them with the launch photos and the way they sat in the water after being built, I'm confident that the waterline shown will be correct. I have also found that there are very few "tweaks" that I have had to make to any design while building from my computer generated plans. Any errors are usually in the 1/16" +/- range at a couple points during the lofting and curve smoothing stage. I would expect no problems during construction.

click the image above for a free PDF file to print and build a model from.

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