System 3 Polyurethane Topcoat
WR-LPU Topcoat is a two-part linear polyurethane coating specifically formulated for maximum performance and ease of use. Available in 12 standard colors as well as clear satin and high gloss. When cured it is moisture, solvent and fuel resistant. WR-LPU contains UV absorbers and will not yellow or lose gloss for years, depending on exposure.
Thin and clean up WR-LPU Topcoat with water.
WR-LPU product kit contains a can of paint and a bottle of crosslinking material*. The paint by itself cures to a very high-quality coating, without the crosslinker. However, the addition of the crosslinking material produces a tougher and more durable film. It will be more chemical and fuel resistant, have better gloss retention and generally last longer than a film cured without the crosslinker.
For preparation and application instructions, read the System 3 Description & Application Guide
Hiya Sandra, and Chuck if you're reading this too, ;-)
This stuff gets two thumbs up from Maddog! And that's not an easy achievement. The primer dries fairly fast even in a coolish basement, and after two coats, there was enough of a layer to sand it smooth... and still have some sticking to the mast and yard. I didn't really want to sand it *or* the topcoat, which I'll get to in a moment, but my second order didn't get here in time to paint the topcoat semi-continuously, meaning, withing 24 hours. My fault for both being too anxious to start painting, and for not ordering sooner. (The second order is due this afternoon.)
I pressed the Brother from the Black Lagoon into service and together we sanded the mast and yard nearly down to the primer. (I'd already laid on the first coat of topcoat.) The Topcoat after only one day is tough as nails.
The Topcoat is awesome. I had some minor trepidations about any more 2-part paint after the less than joyous experience with the Easypoxy I used years ago on Puffin. (Maybe it wasn't 2-part, I don't remember.) But it ran like crazy *and* didn't cover. So I painted and sanded, painted and sanded, and painted...
Topcoat can run if you put it on too thickly. It wants a thin coat, but it "dries" to the eye in only a few minutes, and can be overcoated by the time you reach "the other end" of your project. That's what I did. And rather than tipping it with a dry brush, I tipped with a dryish roller. It made a slightly wrinkly surface, but I'm not trying to get a glass-smooth surface, just thick and hard. (And it might have been wrinkly because I never bothered to sand the primer in the first place.) LOL.
Chuck, you webmaster, you, thanks for including the Application Guide to the S3 pages. I found it a lot easier than wading through S3 itself. I didn't print it the first time I read it and wanted to refresh my memory this morning. Sure enough, I'd missed my window for painting on another coat and crosslinking to the first coat.